Alan,
It's according to how big the cabinet face is, but one way I made some real
nice faceplates was to first print the face on an 11" x 17" (B size) piece of
paper on an inkjet plotter or widebed printer. I laid out the design on my CAD
program. Then have it laminated using a grain textured (frosted looking) clear
plastic on the face side. That's the stuff similar to what they use on new
scopes where the LED's light up behind it. After you get it laminated, glue it
down on the face with a sparay-on type glue they make for this or used to glue
vinyl on speaker cabinets. Scoth makes this glue. Take a razor knife and cut
out all the holes at the switches and mount all the controls through it. When
you clean it, dirt wipes off easy with soap and water. Any blueprint supply
store should be able to do the whole thing for you after you do the design. You
can do the aluminum etched panels also, but they have a size limitation on the
available sheet sizes.
Best,
Will
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 2/27/06 at 6:40 PM Alan Ibbetson wrote:
>I would like to create a front panel for my latest homebrew project with
>better markings than my usual Dymo tape ugliness. I've located some
>material called Water-slide Decal Paper that I think could fit the bill,
>but only if I can find a suitable PC package to draw tuning scales, band
>position markings, and so on.
>
>What package do you recommend? Even better, do you have some general
>purpose templates I could scrounge?
>--
>
>Cheers,
>
>Alan G3XAQ
>alan@g3xaq.demon.co.uk
>
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